Any one used NOE's push through body and nose sizing dies? Results? Opinions?
NOE push through sizing dies ?
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- Last Post 27 October 2016
Another glitch with the nose sizer is that the base of the bullet needs to sit on top of the push pin perfectly aligned with with the axis of the nose sizer bushing and die body. If not, one side of the bushing will shave lead. Or at the very least size the nose out of round with the base. Tough to do just by guess and feel. I made a sleeve that is a sliding fit over the pin for each cal. that I have and about 1/4 inch longer than the pin. The base of the bullet then fits inside the sleeve and is automatically aligned perfectly with the nose bushing.
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That is a problem with the nose bushings. I have bushings for my 30's, 7mm's and recently a .224. Just radiusing the entrance of the nose sizer with a dremel doesn't work very well. I chuck the nose bushing in the lathe and put a very small taper just inside the entrance and then radius the sharp edge of the bottom. Then, following this, polish the inside while blending the above together. After the above, they work perfectly. Even when sizing the 7mm nose riders down .003".
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I am having a problem with the nose sizer. My 311299 is casting noses at .302-.3025 and I an sizing them to .301. The problem is that the sizing die shaves lead from the nose. It is a very thin ribbon but still it is a shaving. Has anyone had this happen and if so did you get it fixed?
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Currently using NOE's push thru body sizing dies in multiple calibers. Super product built on state of the art NC machines. Highly reccommend!
R D Eggleston
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It's too bad the NOE die is not-so-hot for nose-sizing. They seem built to a price point rather than built for quality. In fairness, it's not clear that there is a market for quality dies.
Buckshot offers nose dies that use Redding neck sizing bushings, I believe. I have not used Buckshot's dies and do not know whether they provide sufficient taper, or sufficient support for the rest of the bullet.
It is best if the body of the bullet is supported while the nose is being sized. The ideal nose die swallows most of the bullet (see generic drawing below). If you have a lathe these are not difficult to make.
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style="background-color: rgb(255, 255, 255);"ONe thought to solve BOTH the leverage and the “stop” issue for nose sizing is to replace the linkage on a press with shorter ones. Then, the press can return to a full,but shorter stroke for its max leverage AND, one can then adjust the NOE die such that one can set it for exactly the depth the nose goes into the die. Or use a shortened ram.... style="background-color: rgb(255, 255, 255);" style="background-color: rgb(255, 255, 255);"I have a Tru-Line Jr press with a 7/8-14 turret, where it would be easy to replace the side links. But I don't know if it will be strong/ridgid enough to work accurately for nose sizing. style="background-color: rgb(255, 255, 255);" style="background-color: rgb(255, 255, 255);" style="background-color: rgb(255, 255, 255);"Otherwise, may pick up another second hand press if I can find one reasonably priced... style="background-color: rgb(255, 255, 255);"At least, should not have to do a background check on the press.........for now........... style="background-color: rgb(255, 255, 255);" style="background-color: rgb(255, 255, 255);" Don't care to change out my Rockchucker that is used for a lot of other work. beltfed/arnie
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Thanks for posting this. I too was curious how it sized the nose and what kept you from going into the driving bands. I guess the answer is nothing. Maybe that's why they have a sharper edge? To give you a feel for when it is at the bottom of the nose?
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ArnieYou are correct about the need for a positive stop when sizing bullet noses. I have thought about this some but until we find the logical solution to the leverage issue, one can't be sure what the final press layout will be.Jim
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JHS,Thanks for the pics. That explains the setup and I can see there is no way to get the die mounted so one can get into the peak power portion of a loading press stroke. too bad. Meanwhile, I have been doing some nose sizing in the Lyman and RCBS sizer luber machines. Managed to pick up .300, .301, .299 H&I size dies on ebay several yrs ago. Also can do nose sizing of bullets for my 40-65 and 40-72 with a 0.401” H&I die. Its just a bit more work in the luber sizers that have less power. One thing about nose sizing in the NOE die-- a person should have some kind of a stop on the stroke, so as to nose size to the same “depth” on each bullet.....Perhaps a simple block or bar stop on the ram? Or could a person use the nose/eject punch for that purpose? beltfed/arnie
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One more picture. You obviously do not need the punch when using the die as a push through die. This picture has a push through sleeve in place as well as another push through sleeve inverted on the top of the press. These are held in place by the second set screw on the side of the die body.
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I hope these help clarify the discussion for anyone interested. NOE has given us a flexible tool here. We'll figure out the press leverage issue.
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No, the die screws in from the bottom. I'll try to post a picture later on.
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If you don't screw the NOE die in all the way into the press, you will be more into the power part of the press stroke.??? beltfed/arnie
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Here is a picture. You can bevel the nose bushings with a dremel tool. This certainly helps. I think if you only size .001 or at the very most .002 at a time, the nose bushings will work. I have beveled mine but I need to polish the bevel also which I have not done.
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It is the nose sizing bushings that have a sharp edge. The base sizing bushings do indeed have a good radius.
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I forgot to add that the finish work on this die set is outstanding!
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